Homebrew 2 - IPA

10 December 2005 @ mid-afternoon | Comments (15)

Moving quickly from extract recipes toward something more challenging, I chose a slightly modified version of a partial-grain extract India Pale Ale recipe from The Complete Joy of Homebrewing by Charlie Papazian.

The recipe

  • 3lbs. light DME (American)
  • 3lbs. light DME (Coopers)
  • 1lb. Crystal Malt (20L)
  • 1/2lb. Victory Malt
  • 2tsp. gypsum
  • 2oz. Northern brewer hops (boiling)
  • 1/4oz. Cascade hops (boiling)
  • 3/4oz. Cascade hops (finish)
  • Dry English ale yeast (White Labs)

Lacking both a lauter-tun and knowledge of the necessity of lautering spent grains after steeping, the original gravity (1.037) was quite low. As would most homebrew beginners, I initially blamed the equipment (hydrometer) rather than see the flaw in my beermaking process. However, the beer was bottled on day 13 with a final gravity of 1.018 (exactly where it should have been), thus disproving the bad hydrometer theory and confirming that quite a bit of sugar was left behind in the mash.

The result

Considering the high hops and low alcohol content (under 3%) of this beer, it remains too light both in body and in alcohol to support its bitterness. I’ll continue to let it age for another couple of weeks to see how its character changes, but if I don’t see any noticeable improvement in drinkability I may dump some of it to free up some bottles for the next batch of beer.

On a positive note, I improved the slow wort chilling process from my first batch of homebrew, which caused a slight corny flavor because of DMS and also caused quite a bit of chill haze. With all extra water chilled to around 40°F, the final temperature landed at the perfect yeast-pitching temperature of 76°F. So at the very least this batch is haze-free and corn-free! After I begin doing full-boil recipes I’ll have to obtain a nice wort chiller, but for now this method works well.

Lessons learned

Despite the not-too-tastiness of this IPA, I still learned quite a bit from the mistakes made during this batch. First of all, careful and controlled lautering is a necessity in order to get all the sugars from the spent grain. I’ve yet to acquire a lauter-tun or the knowledge of the process, but hopefully will within the month. Additionally, quick rinsing of bottles after drinking a homebrew is a good idea; I had quite a tough time sanitizing bottles that had been left around for a few days after drinking.

I love everything about the process of making beer, from choosing a recipe’s ingredients to watching the hypnotic CO2 bubbles escape through the fermentation lock, so I don’t view any failed attempt as a failure. On the contrary, a botched batch only serves to further motivate me to brew more beer.


15 comments

1

I experienced similar difficulties with a Cream Ale kit a month or so ago. And it is true. A batch with problems just makes me want to brew again!

Jeff → homebrewer2005.blogspot.com
2

Check the recipe you were working with. This first thing that comes to mind is that the recipe was written for a smaller batch than what you made. If not there then it is your supply of DME, ask your supplier what the the gravity to pound ratios should be. Check these numbers against your other succesful batches. Next check to see if the recipe was written for DME, or liquid malt extract. The yields can be different for each product. It has been some time since I worked with either so I’m not sure which way it works.

The lautering isn’t the problem. Lets break it down, 6 pounds of a concentrated extract to a pound and a half of malt. All of you’re sugar is coming from the DME, not the malt. The malt is purely for color, and flavor (some aroma as well considering the use of Victory). as far as working with the partial malt recipes, after stepping the grain in a correct amount of water, at the proper temp. (usually the boil water for the DME, prior to the addition of DME), simple squeeze the mesh bag you have the malt. Lautering isn’t really an issue till you go all grain, or start using higher precentages of malt.

Side note; a great way to avoid this problem in the future, is to take a boil gravity. Once you hit a good strong boil take a small sample out (use something that wont melt). Place the sample in an ice bath until it is cool enough to get a reading (your hydometer will not read correctly if the sample is to hot, or to cold, 68 F is ideal). If the gravity at the boil is way off don’t add you’re hops yet, instead extend the boil time (you will lose volume and therefore must also use less hops) by boiling off the extra water in the kettle you’ll get closer to you;re gravity. This may result in a darker beer, but darker is better than 3% IPA. As for the amount of time you should boil it’s a matter of how far off you are. Trail and error works best, but there is a book called “desining great beers” that has an equation. Remeber not to do this if you’re close to you’re gravity you’re evaporation rate during boil will bring you closer this is only for really drastic problems.

Cheers

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
3

Hi Mikey,

I was under the assumption that squeezing or compressing grain leeches out tannins from the grain husks that can lead to lots of bad flavors. Is this not the case with partial-mash recipes? The recipe specified DME, so I just assumed that because I didn’t lauter at all that lot of sugar was discarded with the spent grains.

I recently re-did this recipe with more success; we just had the first-tasting last Sunday and it was an improvement (6.2% ABV). I’ve also learned quite a bit in the last two weeks and am moving toward all-grain (I just purchased two 5gal Gott coolers and a wort chiller).

Andrew → compooter.org
4

You’ll only really pull the tannins out if you steep the grain to long (over an hour), and I wouldn’t squeeze the life out of it. Good to see you got the gravity back up, review any notes you have from the last brew and see if there was anything different. It’s still hard to believe that not lautering that small an amout of grain would make that large of a difference (you’ve doubled you abv since the last batch). You could rinse the grains with 170 degree water, after steeping, again just use the water you plan to boil with prior to the DME addition. What volume are you brewing for? 5 gallons? 10?

How different does the new batch taste from the old one? depending on when and were you took the gravity, you could have gotten a bad reading. Sugar will stratify at cooler temp., so you’re heavier sugars go to the bottom. Try taking you’re final reading at the end of the boil this will ensure an accurate reading. Best of luck with the All-grain, it’s really messy, and make sure you get yourself a could thermometer. Temp. is everything in All-grain.

Cheers

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
5

Thanks for the tips; I’ll publish the results of the second IPA attempt in another week or so, after the beer has bottle-conditioned for more than two weeks.

Keep in mind that I’ve been using a pretty ghetto process for my first two batches: no lauter tun and some questionable techniques gleaned from Charlie Papazian’s TCJOHB, which I recently realized has a lot of outdated material. Most of his recipes suggest doing a concentrated boil (1-1/2 gal) without wort chiller, leading to some hot-side aeration and off flavors. Time to upgrade.

I’m trying ascend the homebrew learning curve as quickly as humanly possible, while still allowing enough time to “relax, have a homebrew” ;-) Next batch (my fourth) I think I’ll move to all-grain, having just purchased a cheap wort chiller and a very nice converted Gott cooler mash/lauter tun from Northern Brewer (I would have just made both myself, but the total cost difference is only like $50). I may actually try the IPA recipe a third time and convert to all-grain, just so I can see the taste difference.

After reading for dozens of hours on Google Groups over the last couple weeks (a great resource), it’s obvious that all-grain brewing allows for much greater control and minimizes the possibility of off flavors. My goal is to use a process similar to this. I’m pretty confident that by my tenth batch I’ll be making some damn good brew.

Cheers!

Andrew → compooter.org
6

I cant belive that the hole time i work there that we never talked about homebrewing.

Well thats in the past and better beer is in the future.

hahaha….

later
Mike McC

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
7

Hah! That Mikey? I’ll drop you a line soon...

Andrew → compooter.org
9

Well if any of your stinkin’ email addresses worked, I’d email you. Shoot me an email using this domain and the name used in this comment.

Andrew → compooter.org
10

you can find me at this one…......

hahahahaha

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
11

I have to give props to my bother and Brew Master:

Tim McCarthy

He is the one that has kicked my butt over the years not to mess up his home brew. So i owe him a great thanks for all the beer over the years.

If you would like to see his new brewery in Western Colorado go to Palisade Brewery and check it out.

While your there buy a shirt…. You Drunk.

Cheer’s

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
12

What, no hoodies? ; )

So when do I get a tour? And didn't he used to be brewmaster at Stone?

Andrew → compooter.org
13

If you ever go out to colorado i well give you his number and he well give a tour, and if you are nice he well give all the beer you can drink.

shhhhh.. he well do that anyways.

Tim was one of the brew master’s at stone for, i think 2 years.

One more thing if you do go out there i well make him put you in the mash tun and clean it out. Now that is just fun to do. and you can say that you worked for you beer .

Mikey → aspect-studio.com/
14

I go to Boulder/Denver, CO about once a year so if I can make the ~250mi drive from there, it’s a deal.

Andrew → compooter.org
15

Adam Avery does a great job on his brews at Avery Brewing Company in CO. Great Divide in Denver is pumping some great brews as sell…I love the Hercules IPA…a double (imperial) IPA.

Hey, I just started my blog on blogger. Go check out
http://kgbradio.blogspot.com. It the first homebrew club with a podcast.

Brian → kgbradio.blogspot.com

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